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The Science of Ocean Waves

The Science of Ocean Waves
J. B. Zirker
Johns Hopkins University Press
The Science of Ocean Waves
  • Release Date
    2022-08-30
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3.0 $

  • Category
    Earth Science
  • File Type
    Book
  • Language
    English
  • File Format
    PDF
  • Year
    2013
  • ISIN
    B00GBQUATS
  • ISBN-10
    1421410788
  • ISBN-13
    9781421410784
  • Pages
    263 pages
  • File Size
    3.601 MB
  • Release Date
    2022-08-30

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Book Summary

The Science of Ocean Waves establishes waves as complex natural phenomena warranting scientific inquiry, while noting gaps in understanding their physics and forecasting. It explains how waves impact coastal regions, engineering, climate, and more, necessitating advanced wave study. Specifically, the book aims to provide comprehensive coverage of fundamental wave generation, propagation, transformation, and prediction.

Transitioning to key topics, the text examines wave creation by wind, restoring forces, and spectral composition. It explores shoaling, refraction, breaking, and runup on coasts. Additionally, the book covers forecasting, measurement, statistical analysis, and simulations, plus applications like coastal erosion and marine renewables. Complex concepts like nonlinear dynamics and turbulence are elucidated mathematically and visually.

In summary, The Science of Ocean Waves presents a definitive treatise on wave processes spanning theories, observations, and applications. Blending physics concepts with quantitative analysis, it provides sophisticated yet accessible coverage of waves influencing coasts and infrastructures. While elucidating complex fluid behaviors, the text maintains intuitive explanations aided by illustrations. Overall, the book equips readers with integrated knowledge of ocean wave science and engineering.

The Science of Ocean Waves notes rapid progress in wave research, while emphasizing persistent gaps at intersections like climate science and policy. It calls for ongoing advances via global collaboration between academia, government, and industry. The book aims to spur such innovation by cultivating an informed, curious next generation of wave scientists.

Contents

  • Preface ix
  • A Walk along the Beach 1
  • What Exactly Is a Wave? 10
  • How the Wind Generates Ocean Waves 29
  • A Touch of Reality: How Big Waves Behave 45
  • Observations at Sea: The Postwar Boom 59
  • Forecasting and Monitoring Storm Waves 80
  • Breaking Waves 104
  • Freaks and Rogues 122
  • Tsunamis 142
  • Internal Waves and El Niño 158
  • The Tides 177
  • The Currents 194
  • Ship Waves 200
  • Renewable Energy from Waves and Tides 216
  • The Future 232
  • Glossary 235
  • Index 239

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